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Chanel eyewear F/W 2015.16: Lily-Rose Depp by Karl Lagerfeld


Jeffrey Rüdes Mens S/S 2016 New York

Theory Mens S/S 2016 New York

Asaf Ganot Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Jean E. Palmieri
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Brazilian cities served as the building blocks for Asaf Ganot’s spring collection.

“I lived in Brazil for two years and I’ve always wanted to be Brazilian,” said Ganot. “This is my interpretation of the Brazilian attitude and lifestyle and how that man dresses.”

In Ganot’s world, that man has an affinity for leather and suede. He presented leather that ranged from an electric blue moto style to a white biker option with a charcoal lapel. Suede shoes with drawstrings were highlights.

Tailored options included tuxedo suits with leather-trimmed lapels and a paper crinkle blazer and shorts with frayed edges.

Work from Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer informed patterns on intarsia knits and board shorts.

All in all, the collection should do well at retail as Ganot continues to define his vision.
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Loris Diran Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Aria Hughes
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Juxtaposition was the concept behind Loris Diran’s spring collection, which mixed tailored and athletic feeling pieces. Working within a tight set of colors — blue, gray, beige and brown — Diran presented strong knits, classic blazers and double-breasted jackets with either slim, cropped pants or in drop-crotch, jodhpur styles. Contrasting swirl panels placed on outerwear added a subtle dimension to the offering.

When Diran wasn’t playing with opposing ideas, he was thinking about texture and worked with fabrics ranging from neoprene to a perma-creased gabardine.

Although the designer showed a sophisticated level of restraint, some pieces, specifically the slim, drop-crotch pants, felt out of place.
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Nautica Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Jean E. Palmieri
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Nautica is stripping down for spring. Under the direction of new men’s designer Steve McSween, the brand offered up a presentation that focused on the core of its DNA: bathing suits, rain jackets and nautical-inspired sweaters. McSween also incorporated the company’s hometown of New York City into the mix, using the city’s landmarks, such as the Chrysler Building and its famed gargoyles, as the basis for the prints on the swimwear and knitwear.

“This is where water meets the city, but with a metropolitan New York filter,” he said.

Nylon peacoats were offered in waterproof breathable fabrics, anoraks featured watermark-print linings and cable-knit “modern regatta” sweaters conjured up the idea of a sailor at sea. The swimwear was offered in solids and patterns — including one pattern that was intended to look like “subway tiles put into a blender.” Several lengths, ranging from 14 to 18 inches, allowed for individuality.

A few key pieces included a double stripe, which McSween said will be used in future collections as a “signature detail.”

He also turned to the archives of Nautica founder David Chu for inspiration for the collection’s 12-meter jacket that he “reinvented” this season to be more about sportswear and less about competition.

Although the presentation was tight, it was a promising start in yet another reinvention of the Nautica brand.
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Sara Cummings

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agencies: Soul Artist Management & Zucca Model Management
height: 5'7"
bust: 32"
waist: 24"
hips: 33"

soulartistmanagement

Iván Bernabé


Vera Wang F/W 15.16 : Joséphine Le Tutour & Binx Walton by Patrick Demarchelier

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verawang/instagram

Parke & Ronen Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Luis Campuzano
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It was a celebration of the Seventies at Parke & Ronen. Inspired by Pan American Eastern airlines, designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel took their cue from patterns found in flight lounges for their swimsuit and casual sportswear collection.

Paisleys, psychedelic stripes and color blocking were some of the patterns highlighted in trunks, shirts and even flowy lounge pants.

Known for their fitted swim trunks, a new relaxed fit was introduced this season, which also doubled as a cover up for the bikinis worn underneath.

With their bevy of barely dressed models and hippie music, Parke & Ronen brought a ray of sunshine to the NYFW: Men’s runway.
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Orley Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Alex Badia
Quote:

After channeling their grandfather as inspiration last season, Alex, Matthew and Samantha Orley jumped forward to their parents and the 1970s as inspiration for spring.

“The collection was inspired by our mom and dad and the time they met,” said Alex. “We’re exploring the concept of what made them different.”

Their mother’s influence was apparent in an array of hand-crocheted sweaters that took 100 hours to produce while their father’s heritage came through in a retro ivory plaid double-breasted short suit and a navy trench coat. A cropped pink polo shirt and an array of sleeveless knit tops in extra-fine merino wool showcased the gender-bending influence seen in the line. “It’s the duality of our parents,” said Matthew.

By the strength of this collection, it’s obvious that the Orley family is a chic bunch.
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Polo Ralph Lauren Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Jean E. Palmieri
Quote:

A pared down, updated sensibility was the new message at Ralph Lauren’s expansive spring Polo presentation. “This is the heritage of Polo, but more modern,” said Jerry Lauren.

While the designer’s signature preppy aesthetic continued to run through the line, the silhouettes were cleaner and less predictable.

That message was most clear in the Polo suit offering, where the designer let go of all the embellishments of the past with solid knit ties and tonal or striped shirts serving as complements to the trimmer jackets and narrower pants. A double-breasted peak lapel midnight blue tuxedo was a bit of a surprise for the mostly casual collection, but served to elevate the brand into new territory.

Other highlights included a three-piece denim suit and a paper-thin black trench coat over a black crewneck sweater and slate gray dress trousers, with a modicum of a high waist.

The Polo Sport offering married high-performance detailing with street styling, such as Belgian camouflage cargo pants and two-in-one shorts with built-in leggings.

Ralph Lauren’s involvement in NYFW: Men’s was essential to the week, and his collection displayed how the powerhouse American brand continues to reinvent itself.
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Perry Ellis Mens S/S 2016 New York

By Jean E. Palmieri
Quote:

The lineup notes may have said “Very Perry,” but Michael Maccari’s collection was anything but.

While he definitely drew from vintage Perry Ellis designs for the knit offerings, Maccari made his own mark by adding an array of relaxed sportswear pieces and athletic references.

“I was inspired by guys coming to and from the gym,” he said, pointing to the open shirts, compression tights under baggy shorts and cropped bombers.

Playful prints in sweaters and jackets ranged from explosive weaves to painterly graphics, while the suit silhouette was very structured. The shoulder became more powerful, pants were fuller and the jackets were elongated. “I’m tired of seeing short jackets,” Maccari said.

An array of slouchy iridescent anoraks were a highlight of the show and displayed Maccari’s ability to blend the old and the new.
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Josh Truesdell

Amica August 2015: Diana Moldovan by Nicolas Valois


Vogue España August 2015 : Kim Kardashian by Theo Wenner

Natalia Grabowska

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agency: Zucca Models (Tokyo)
height: 175 cm
bust: 80 cm
waist: 58 cm
hips: 88 cm

zucca-models.co.jp

Siki Im Mens S/S 2016 New York

John Varvatos Mens S/S 2016 New York

Engineered Garments Mens S/S 2016 New York

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